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Updated April 2026 · Tools, steps, torque specs

DIY Engine Mount Replacement: Tools, Steps, Torque Specs & When NOT to DIY

Front mounts save $120-$280 in labour. Transmission mounts require an engine support bar. Here is everything you need to know before starting.

Difficulty by Mount Position

PositionDifficultyTimeLabour Saved
Torque strut / dog bone2/1045-90 min$80-$150
Front driver engine mount4/101-2 hr$120-$250
Front passenger engine mount4-6/101.5-2.5 hr$150-$280
Rear transmission mount7/102-3 hr$180-$350

Tools Required and Investment

ToolCost (to buy)
Floor jack (2-3 ton)$45-$85
Jack stands (pair)$30-$60
Socket set (metric + SAE)$60-$100
Torque wrench (1/2" drive)$50-$120
Engine support bar$80-$180
Penetrating oil (PB Blaster)$8-$12
Pry bar$15-$25
Wheel chocks$10-$15

Total tool investment: $100-$200 if starting from scratch. Renting the engine support bar from AutoZone or O'Reilly eliminates the biggest single cost.

10-Step Front Mount Replacement

1

Park, chock, and prepare

Level ground. Parking brake on. Chock rear wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal if working near electrical components.

2

Loosen top mount bolt (do not remove)

Access the through-bolt from the top of the engine bay with the hood open. Loosen 2-3 turns. Removing it at this stage will cause the engine to shift when you jack it.

3

Raise front and support on stands

Jack at designated frame points. Place jack stands before getting under the vehicle. Never work under a car supported only by a floor jack.

4

Position jack under oil pan with wood block

Place a 2x4 between the jack pad and the oil pan. This distributes the load and prevents cracking the pan. The jack is now supporting engine weight.

5

Raise engine slightly

Raise the jack until the mount just begins to unload. You are lifting the engine 1-2 cm maximum. Do not lift enough to stretch coolant hoses or tension the exhaust.

6

Remove through-bolt and bracket bolts

Remove the now-accessible hardware. Note the orientation of the mount relative to the bracket before removal. Some mounts are directional.

7

Extract the old mount

Wiggle and pull free. If seized, apply penetrating oil and wait 20 minutes. A pry bar on the bracket (not the rubber) helps.

8

Clean surfaces and inspect bracket

Clean contact surfaces with a wire brush. Inspect the bracket for cracks. A cracked bracket must be replaced; a mount on a cracked bracket will fail quickly.

9

Install new mount

Position in correct orientation. Hand-start all bolts before torquing any. This allows the mount to self-align.

10

Torque to spec and verify

Torque through-bolt first (typically 40-80 ft-lb), then bracket bolts (20-40 ft-lb). Lower vehicle. Start engine, rev to 2,500 rpm, observe engine movement. No unusual rock = success.

Torque Specs (Generic Ranges)

FastenerGeneric Range
Mount through-bolt (large centre bolt)40-80 ft-lb
Mount bracket-to-chassis bolts20-40 ft-lb
Transmission mount through-bolt50-70 ft-lb
Torque strut bracket bolts28-45 ft-lb

Always look up your specific year/make/model torque specs before starting. AllData, Mitchell, or your OEM service manual are the correct sources. Generic ranges above are for estimation only.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Avoid: Under-torquing the through-bolt: allows micro-movement that kills the new mount in 20-30k miles.
Avoid: Over-torquing bracket bolts: cracks the mount housing on some designs.
Avoid: Not marking mount orientation before removal: some mounts are directional and will not fit correctly if installed backwards.
Avoid: Mixing left and right mounts: they are different parts. Do not swap sides.
Avoid: Reusing stretch-to-yield (TTY) bolts: these are one-use fasteners. Replace with new OEM bolts.
Avoid: Forgetting to remove the air intake or battery tray on some vehicles: necessary for access on many 4-cylinder FWD cars.
Avoid: No engine support for transmission mount: the powertrain can shift suddenly, trapping hands or damaging adjacent components.

When NOT to DIY

  • Severely seized and rusted brackets (Northern states, older vehicles) that require heat or cutting tools
  • Any AWD transmission mount where the transfer case adds significant complexity
  • Hydraulic mounts on vehicles with VCM or active engine damping systems
  • If you have never done suspension or powertrain work before and are attempting a transmission mount
  • Vehicles with no room to place an engine support bar (some packaging-constrained imports)

Free Loaner Tool Programs

AutoZone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, and Advance Auto Parts offer engine support bars, engine hoist rentals, and pullers free of charge with a refundable deposit. Call ahead to confirm availability. This eliminates the biggest upfront tool cost for a transmission mount job.

Reader questions

Told you need all four mounts when only one is knocking?

Send the estimate over with whatever the shop told you, and we will work through what the numbers on it should look like for that vehicle.

Who reads it
A person. This site does not sell parts, book jobs or hand your details to a shop, so nothing is waiting at the end of an answer.
What comes back
A reply that says where each figure came from: the flat-rate book-hours a shop bills against, a named parts supplier's price, or the regional labour-rate band.
If it helps others
Some questions are worth more than one inbox. We ask you first, then take out anything identifying before an anonymised version goes on a page.
Where this stops
This is a price and symptom reference. It is not a diagnosis and it is not a repair procedure. A clunk under acceleration can be a mount, and it can as easily be an axle, a sway-bar link or a loose exhaust hanger, and the one thing email cannot do is tell you which. That needs a mechanic with the car on a lift. Price, part choice and what a written quote should itemise are all fair to ask here.

Updated 2026-04-27